There is a hill at Thiruparankundram, just outside Madurai, that carries more history than most people realise. Most visitors know the site for its ancient Murugan temple, one of the six abodes of the war god, cut deep into the rock face of the hill. Far fewer notice what stands on the northeastern slope — a modest but deeply venerated dargah, quietly watching over a landscape that witnessed one of medieval South India’s most consequential turning points. This is the dargah of Sikandar Shah, the last ruler of the Madurai Sultanate, a man remembered in equal measure as a vanquished king, a spiritual seeker, and — depending on who is telling the story — a saint.

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